急求世界著名服装品牌的英文介绍

Chanel：

ChanelS.A.,commonlyknownasChanel(Englishpronunciation:/ʃəˈnɛl/),isaParisianfashionhousefoundedbythelatecouturierCocoChanel,recognizedasoneofthemostchicinthehautecouture.Specializinginluxurygoods(hautecouture,ready-to-wear,handbags,perfumery,andcosmeticsamongothers),theChanellabelhasbecomeoneofthemostrecognizednamesintheluxuryandhautecouturefashionindustry.[1]AccordingtoForbes,theprivatelyheldHouseofChanelisjointlyownedbyAlainWertheimerandGerardWertheimerwhoarethegrandsonsoftheearly(1924)ChanelpartnerPierreWertheimer.

Thecompanyhashadmanyhigh-profilecelebritiesasspokesmodels,includingCatherineDeneuve(1970sChanelNo.5spokesmodel),NicoleKidman(early2000sChanelNo.5spokesmodel),AudreyTautou(currentChanelNo.5spokesmodel),andmostfamously,MarilynMonroe(1950sChanelNo.5spokesmodel)picturedsplashingherselfwithabottleofChanelNo.5.TheimageiscertainlythemostfamousofallChaneladvertisements,andcontinuestobeoneofthemostpopularadvertisementphotosinthehistoryofmarketing,usedincountlessbiographies,andstillsellinginlargequantitiesasaposterandartpieceusingMarilynMonroeasthemodel.[2].

Establishmentandrecognition:1909through1920s

CocoChanelearlyyears.In1909,GabrielleChanelopenedashoponthegroundflooroftheBalsan'sapartmentinParis-thebeginningsofwhatwouldlaterbecomeoneofthegreatestfashionempiresintheworld.[1]TheBalsanhomewasameetingplaceofthehuntingeliteofFranceandthegentlemenbroughttheirfashionablemistressesalong,givingCocotheopportunitytosellthewomendecoratedhats.DuringthistimeCocoChanelstruckuparelationshipwithArthurCapel,amemberoftheBalsanmen'sgroup.[1]

HesawabusinesswomaninCocoandhelpedheracquireherlocationat31RueCamboninParisby1910.[1]Therewasalreadyacoutureshopinthebuilding,andsoCocowasnotallowedinherleasetoproducecouturedresses.[1]In1913,Chanelintroducedwomen'ssportswearathernewboutiqueinDeauvilleandBiarritz,France.Shedetestedthefashionsofwomenwhocametotheseresorttowns.[1]Chanel'sdesignstendedtobesimpleratherthanopulentinlook(commonhautecouturefashionoftheBellepoque).[3]WorldWarIaffectedfashion.Coalwasscarceandwomenweredoingthefactoryjobsthatmenhadheldpriortothewar;theyneededwarmclothingthatwouldstanduptoworkingconditions.Chanelfossella'sdesignsfromthiserawereaffectedbythenewideaofwomen'ssports.DuringWorldWarI,CocoopenedanotherlargershoponRuedeCamboninfrontoftheHtelRitzParis.[1]Hereshesoldflannelblazers,straightlinenskirts,sailortops,longjerseysweatersandskirt-jackets.[1]Herfashionbecameknownin1915throughoutFranceforitssimplicity.Intheyears1915and1917,Harper'sBazaarmentionedthatChanel'snamewasonthelistofeverybuyer.[1]Herboutiqueat31RueCambonpreviewedsimpledaydress-and-coatensemblesandblackeveningdressesinlaceorjet-embroideredtulle(shealsopiledcushionsoffeathers,furandmetallicfabricsonthesofasinthegrayandambersalons).[1]

CocoChanelestablishedherreputationasameticulousfashioncouturier.[1]Followingthefashiontrendsofthe1920s,Chanelproducedbeadeddresses.[1]Thesuitintwoorthreepiecescreatedin1920remainsamodernfashionlook.Thesuitwasadvocatedasthenewuniformforafternoonandeveningasfarbackas1915.1921sawtheintroductionofherfirstperfumeChanelNo.5.[1]EarnestBeauxcreatedthefragranceforCocoandshenameditafterherluckynumber5.[1]Thefragrancewasasuccess.Thesignaturescentwasaresultofherbeliefinsuperstitions.Shewasscheduledtoshowhercollectiononthefifthdayofthefifthmonth.[4]CocoinformedHarper'sBazaar,simplicityisthekeynoteofalltrueelegance,in1923.[1]

[edit]ParfumsChanel:thelate1920s

ChanelNo.5introducedin1921.ParfumsChanel[5]wasfoundedin1924byPierreWertheimertoproduceandsellperfumesandbeautyproducts.[5]TheophileBader(founderofthesuccessfulFrenchdepartmentstoreGaleriesLafayette)introducedCocotoWertheimer.[5]Wertheimerretained70%ofParfumsChanel,whileBaderretained20%,andCocoamodest10%.[5]CocowasforcedtooperatehercouturebusinessapartfromParfumsChanel.[5]In1924,Cocoalsointroducedherfirstcostumejewelrywhichwereapairofpearlearrings,oneblack,onewhite.[1]Alongwiththesuccessofherhautecouturebusiness,Cocoexpandedhersocialdesirabilityandherpersonallegend.[1]AnewloveinterestinherlifewastheDukeofWestminster.[1]Sheintroducedhersignaturecardiganjacketin1925andin1926,the‘littleblackdress,'andatweed,inspiredbyvisitstoScotland.Soon,CocooperatedaboutiqueneartherenownedLouvre.[5]

AsthecoutureChanelandParfumsChanelgainedsuccess,businessrelationsbetweenCocoandPierreweresour.[5]SheresentedthepartnershipwithPierreWertheimerandbelievedshedeservedmorethan10%oftheprofits,andbelievedthattheWertheimerswereexploitinghertalentsfortheirownpersonalgain.[5]WertheimerremindedCocothathehadfundedherventure,andthathehadmadeherawealthywoman.[5]

CocohiredRenédeChambrunasherattorneyforrenegotiatingthetermswiththeWertheimers.[5]butthisfailed.Theyoungestmodelshehiredwasateenagerfromherarea,MeredithAnnaline.

[edit]ChanelandNaziaffiliation:1930sthrough1950s

EveningcouturedressesfromChanelevolvedintoanelongatedfemininestyle.[1]Summerdresseshadcontrastingscintillatingtouches(e.g.rhinestonestrapsandsilvereyelets).[1]Cocodesignedalineforpetitewomenin1937.[1]Throughoutthe1930s,ElsaSchiaparelliwascompetingmorestronglywiththeHouseofChanel,butthiswasonlyashorttermrivalry.Chanelpremieredanexhibitionofjewelryin1932dedicatedtothediamond.Severalofthepieces,includingtheCometandFountainnecklaceswerere-introducedbyChanelin1993.WhenWorldWarIIbeganin1939,CocoChanelretiredandmovedintotheHtelRitzPariswithhernewbeau,NaziofficerHansGunthervonDincklage.[1][3][5]Onlyherparfumsandaccessoriesweresoldinherexistingboutiques.

WhenFrancefellunderthecontrolofAdolfHitler'sNaziGermanyin1940,theNazismadetheRitztheirFrenchheadquarters.[1]PierreWertheimerandhisfamilyfledtotheUnitedStatesin1940,andbeforeCococouldtakecontrolofParfumsChanel,WertheimermadeanAryanproxyforthecompany.[5]RumorsspreadthatCocowasongoodtermswiththeGermans.[1]ChanelbiographerEdmondeCharles-RouxstatesthatGermanintelligencesenthertovisitWinstonChurchillasapartofasecretpeacemission.CocoChanelwasarrestedimmediatelyaftertheliberationofFranceandchargedwithabettingtheGermans,butChurchillintervenedonherbehalfandshewasreleased.[5]WhenFrancewasliberatedafterthefalloftheNaziEmpire,manyFrenchpeoplemetedoutpunishmentstoFrenchwomenwhowerebelievedtohavecollaboratedwiththeNazis.CocoChanelwaswithoutadoubtatargetaftertherumors,andsoshefledtoSwitzerland.[1][5]

InCoco'sabsence,PierreWertheimerreturnedtoParistocontrolWertheimerfamilyholdings.[5]Outofspite,Cococreatedherowncollectionofperfumes.Wertheimerfelthislegalrightswereinfringed,buthewantedtoavoidalegalbattleandsettledwithCocobygivingher$400,000USD,2%royaltyfromallChanelproducts,andgaveherlimitedrightstosellherownperfumesinSwitzerland.[5]Cocostoppedmakingperfumesaftertheagreement.ShesoldthecompleterightstohernametotheWertheimersforPerfumesChanel,inexchangeforamonthlystipend.Thestipendsupportedherandherfriend,vonDincklage.[5]

[edit]Chanel'scomeback:1950sthrough1970s

ChanelreturnedtoParisin1953[1]tofindthatfashiondesignerChristianDiornowdominatedthecouturemarket.[1]Cocore-approachedPierreforbusinessadviceandfinancialback-up.[5]Inreturn,hegainedcompleterightstoallproductsstampedwiththenameChanel.[5]Theirre-collaborationpaidoffasChanelbecamethetoplabelinfashionagain.[5]Chanelre-introducedtheChanelsuit[3]andintroducedtheChanelchainhandledquiltedleatherhandbagsinFebruary1955(Thedateisusedasthenameoftherecentlyre-releasedbag,2.55),[1]andherfirsteaudetoiletteformen,PourMonsieur(whichhasalsobeenmarketedunderthenameAGentleman'sCologne).ChanelandherspringcollectionreceivedtheFashionOscaratthe1957FashionAwardsinDallas.PierreboughtBadar's20%shareoftheperfumebusiness,givinghisfamily90%.[5]Pierre'ssonJacquesWertheimertookhisfather'splacein1965.[5]Coco'sattorneyChambruncalledthenow-gone-relationshipasonebasedonabusinessman'spassionforawomanwhofeltexploitedbyhim.[5]HetoldForbes,PierrereturnedtoParisfullofprideandexcitement[afteroneofhishorseswonthe1956EnglishDerby].HerushedtoCoco,expectingcongratulationsandpraise.Butsherefusedtokisshim.Sheresentedhim,yousee,allherlife.[5]

GabrielleCocoChaneldiedonJanuary10,1971attheageof87.[1]Shewasstilldesigning,stillworkingatthetimeofherdeath.[1]Forexample,shedesignedtheuniformsforOlympicAirwaysflightattendants(1966-1969),followedbyPierreCardin.OlympicAirwayswasthenoneofthemostluxuriousaircarriers,ownedbytheGreekshipping-magnateAristotleOnassis.Afterherdeath,leadershipofthecompanywashandeddowntoYvonneDudel,JeanCazaubonandPhilippeGuibourge.[1]TheHousecontinuedaveragesuccess,andJacquesWetheimerboughttheentireHouseofChanel.[1][5]Criticsstatedthatduringhisleadership,heneverpaidmuchattentiontothecompanyashewasmoreinterestedinhorsebreeding.[5]In1974,theHouseofChanellaunchedCristalleeaudetoilette,whichwasdesignedwhenCocoChanelwasalive.1978sawthelaunchofthefirstnon-couture,prêt-à-porterlineandworldwidedistributionofaccessories.

AlainWertheimer,Jacquesson,tookoverin1974.[1][5]BackintheU.S.,ChanelNo.5wasseenasapasseperfume.[5]AlainrevampedChanelNo.5salesbyreducingthenumberofoutletscarryingthefragrancefrom18,000to12,000.Heremovedtheperfumefromdrugstoreshelves,andinvestedmillionsofdollarsinadvertisementforChanelcosmetics.ThisensuredagreatersenseofscarcityandexclusivityforNo.5,andsalesrocketedbackupasdemandforthefragranceincreased.[5]Lookingforadesignerwhocouldbringthelabeltonewheights,hepersuadedKarlLagerfeldtoendhiscontractwithfashionhouseChloé.

[edit]Post-Cocothroughtoday

[edit]ThecomingofLagerfeld

In1981,Chanellaunchedaneweaudetoiletteformen,Antaeus.In1983,LagerfeldtookoveraschiefdesignerforChanel.[5]HechangedChanel'sfashionlinesfromtheoldlinestoshortercutsandeyecapturingdesigns.Duringthe1980s,morethan40Chanelboutiqueswereopenedupworldwide.[5]Bytheendofthe1980s,theseboutiquessoldgoodsrangingfrom$200-per-ounceperfume,$225USDballerinaslippersto$11,000USDdressesand$2,000USDleatherhandbags.[5]RightstoChanelcosmeticsandfragranceswereheldbyChanelonlyandnotsharedwithotherbeautyproducersanddistributors.[5]AsLagerfeldtookchargeaschiefdesigner,otherdesignersandmarketersforChanelworkedonkeepingtheclassicChanellooktomaintaintheChanellegend.[5]ChanelmarketerJeanHoehnexplained,Weintroduceanewfragranceevery10years,noteverythreeminuteslikemanycompetitors.Wedon'tconfusetheconsumer.WithChanel,peopleknowwhattoexpect.Andtheykeepcomingbacktous,atallages,astheyenterandleavethemarket.[5]ThelaunchofanewfragranceinhonorofthelateCocoChanel,Coco,in1984maintainedsuccessintheperfumerybusinesswithChanel.[5]In1986,theHouseofChanelstruckadealwithwatchmakersandin1987,thefirstChanelwatchmadeitsdebut.Bytheendofthedecade,AlainmovedtheofficestoNewYorkCity.[5]

[edit]Inthe1990s

Chanel'sboutiqueonRodeoDriveinBeverlyHills,California.Thecompanyearnedtheplaceasagloballeaderinfragrancemakerandmarketinginthe1990s.[5]Heavymarketinginvestmentincreasedrevenue.[5]ThesuccessoftheMaisondeChanelbroughttheWertheimerfamilyfortuneto$5billionUSD.[5]Productlinessuchaswatches(retailingforasmuchas$7,000USD),shoes,high-endclothes,cosmeticsandaccessorieswereexpanded.[5]Saleswerehurtbytherecessionoftheearly1990s,butChanelrecoveredbythemid-1990swithfurtherboutiqueexpansion.[5]1990sawthelaunchofĹŹ.Asthebusinesstrendwasgoingabout(buyingupotherfashioncompanies),Chanel—likeMot-Hennessy•LouisVuitton,GucciandPrada--boughtupnumerouscompanies.[5]TheHouseacquiredLesBroderiesLemarié(arenownfeatherandflowercraftshousewhichprovidedembroideryforthehautecoutureindustry),,A.MichaeletCie,andLesage.[5]ChanelwasalsorumoredtoalsobuythecompanyMassaro.[5]

By1996,ChanelboughtgunmakerHolland&Holland.Itattemptedtorevampthegunsmakerbutdidnotsucceed.[5]1996alsogreetedthelaunchofAllurefragranceandduetoitsimmensepopularity,amen'sversion,AllureHommewaslaunchedin1998.BettersuccesscamewiththepurchaseofEres(arenownedswimwearlabel).TheHouseofChanellauncheditsfirstskincareline,PRCISIONin1999.Thatsameyear,Chanellaunchedanewtravelcollection,andunderalicensecontractwithLuxottica,introducedalineofsunglassesandeyeglassframes.

[edit]2000throughtoday

WhileAlainWertheimerremainedchairmanofChanel,CEOandPresidentFranoiseMontenaywastobringChanelintothe21stcentury.[5]2000sawthelaunchofthefirstunisexwatchbyChanel,theJ12,astylewhosecleancutsandfusionofmasculineandfeminineelementsformedarevolutionarywatch,andasupposedcult-followingincertaincircles.In2001,Bell&Rosswaspurchased(awatchmaker).Thesameyear,ChanelboutiquesofferingonlyselectionsofaccessorieswereopenedintheUnitedStates.[5]

AChanelboutiqueinPrince'sBuilding,Central,HongKong.2002sawthelaunchofChancefragrance,withascentofsurpriseandglamour.TheHouseofChanelalsofoundedtheParaffectioncompanythatgatheredthefiveAteliersd’Art:Desruesforornamentation,Lemariéforfeathersandcamellias,Lesageforembroiderer,Massaroforshoemaker,andMichelformillinery.Aprêt-à-portercollectionproposingtheirknow-howwasdesignedbyKarlLagerfeld.ItisnowtraditionallypresentedeachDecember.InJuly2002,ajewelryandwatchflagshipstorewasopenedontheupscaleMadisonAvenue.[5]Withinthemonths,a1,000sqftshoesandhandbagsboutiquewasopenednextdoortotheJewelryandwatchesflagship.[5]Outofeverythingthathappenedin2002,themostshockingwastherumorcirculatingthefashionworld,suggestingthatChanelwasconsideringamergerwiththerenownluxurygoodsParisianfashioncompanyHermès.[5]ThiswouldmakeChanelandHermèsoneofthemostpowerfulfashioncompaniesintheworldthelikesofMot-Hennessy•LouisVuitton.ThisbroughtthestorecountintheU.S.to25locationsnationwide.[5]

Topleaseitsyoungerfollowers,ChanelintroducedCocoMademoiselleandanIn-BetweenWearin2003.ThatsameyearsawsuchanimmensepopularityofChanelhautecouturethatthecompanyfoundedasecondshoponrueCambon.ContinuinganinfluenceintheAsianmarket,theHouseofChanelopenedanew2,400SquarefeetboutiqueinHongKongandpaidnearly$50millionUSDforabuildingintheclassyandupscaleshoppingdistrictofGinzainTokyo,Japan.[1]

[edit]Influenceonfashionandpopularity

ChanelHeadquarters,PlaceVendme,Paris.CocoChanelrevolutionizedhautecouturefashionbyreplacingthetraditionalcorsetedsilhouettewiththecomfortofsimplesuitsandlong,leandresses[citationneeded].Theyearsofthe1920sand1930swillbestberememberedastheeraofCocowhosesimplerlinesofwomen'scoutureledtothepopularflat-chestedlookofthe1920s.[3][6]Herclothingwasrelaxedandchangedthewaywomendressedforoutdoorleisure.Cocoomittedcorsets,liberatingwomenandcreatingmorecomfort.[3]ContemporaryFashionstates,Shedressedthemodernwomaninclothesforalifestyle.[3]Cocoiscreditedformakingjersey(asoftelasticatedknitusedforundegarments)anewfashionfabric.[3]Herjerseydressesinnavyandgraywerecuttoflatterthefigureratherthantoemphasizeanddistortthenaturalbodyshape.[3]Thesedresseswerehighlypopularbywealthywomen,andsosheextendedherrangewiththembeingmanufactoredbyRodier.[3]Chanelalsoincorporatedideasfrommalewardrobeintoherdesigns.[3]

Shehadnumerousothermajorsuccessesthatchangedthefashionindustry,includingtheeverpopularChanelsuit,composedofaknee-lengthskirtandtrim,boxyjacket,traditionallymadeofwovenwoolwithblacksewingtrimandgoldbuttons,wornwithlargecostume-pearlnecklaces.[1][3]Thehemofthesuitisweighteddownwithachain.Wealthywomenaroundtheworldbegantoflocktoher31RueCambonboutiquetocommissioncoutureoutfitsfromher.[1]TheHouseofChanelbecameaniconofeleganceandfromthenon,thenameChanelbecamesynonymouswithelegance,wealth,andelitism,aswellastheultimatesignofFrenchhighclass.[1][5]Afterthephenomenalsuccess[1][3][5]ofherperfume,ChanelNo.5,CocoChanel'sfashionsbecameevenmorewell-knownandwerepurchasedbythehighflyersofLondonandParissocietyalike.Thefinancialgainfromthefragrancealsohelpedhercompanyduringdifficultyears.[3]

Overall,ChanelhastouchedmanyAmericanandEuropeanfashiondesignersforherpioneeringsearchfororiginalityandsimpleperfection.[3]Theycontinuetore-inforceherconceptofuncomplicatedclassicsthatinspiremanycontemporarydesigners'ready-to-wearcollections--anhomagetoChanel'sessentialmoderniststylingandherlegacytotheworldoffashion.[3]

Chanelisalsoknownforitsquiltedfabricandleatherwhichalsohasasecretquiltingpatternsewnatthebacktokeepthematerialstrong.Itwasinspiredbythejacketsofjockeys.Thismaterialisusedforclothingandaccessoriesalike.TheLuxuryLine,introducedin2006featuringametalchainembeddedintheleather,wasoneofthemostdesiredbagsofthemoment.Chanelstillispopularbecauseitmixesthetrendsoftodaywiththeclassandsimplicityithadwhenitfirstopened.ThebrandiscurrentlyheadedbyGerman-borndesignerKarlLagerfeld,whoalsodesignsfortheHouseofFendi,aswellashisnamesakelabel.

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